The China Club, Hong Kong

Hong Kong on business is never a chore, and especially not when old friends are waiting for you on arrival to whisk you off to The China Club for restorative drinks and dinner after a long flight.

I would refrain from calling David Tang’s wonderful China Club camp, but the décor is a most distinctive mix of pseudo-1930s chic and tongue-in-cheek colonial. The atmosphere will be vaguely familiar to fans of Tang’s outrageous basement restaurant at The Dorchester, but this is the real deal.

Set over several floors, the labyrinthine layout allows guests to get gloriously lost whilst soaking up the superb private art collection that seems to grace every wall. By the time you are sipping your first of many G&Ts at the Long Bar, you know you have arrived. It’s time to sit back and enjoy the ride.

The highlights of our dinner were a braised conpoy (dried-scallop) soup with shredded duck, some wonderfully crisp deep-fried chicken and their famous Peking Duck. We did drink some (French) wine but it wasn’t really anything to write home about.

Like everywhere in Hong Kong, the service flits from the sublime to the ridiculous, both attentive and chaotic, and only periodically downright rude. It’s all part of the fun. We ended the night on the glorious rooftop terrace smoking cigars and drinking whisky while plotting world domination and daring adventures – this place really gets under your skin.

View

View From The China Club Terrace

Cost of meal:
Approximately £50 per person (but didn’t see a bill)

Food:
9 out of 10 – like the takeaway you’ve always dreamed of but never found

Atmosphere:
9 out of 10 – great dining room, Blade Runner view from terrace

Service:
4 out of 10 – polite, rude, helpful, hilarious

Overall:
8 out of 10

Summary in seven:
Not faultless but still marvellous. So HK.

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